Interview with Italian Vintner Antinori: 'Italian Wines Are Drunk, Not Collected'



DER SPIEGEL: Ms. Antinori, you have been as soon as referred to as “Prince Charles of the Wine Global” since you have been handiest 50 while you turn out to be president of Antinori and took over the control of the property out of your father.

Antinori: That used to be an unlucky remark German industry mag got here up with and in reality now not even true. In circle of relatives companies like ours, succession is sort of a relay race, una staffetta: you run in combination for some time till the baton is passed over. This can be a herbal transfer over. We did not have an abrupt transition. There used to be no, “Now I’m the boss right here” second.

DER SPIEGEL: Within the 633 years the corporate has existed, you’re the first girl on the best. Is particular feeling?

Antinori: I by no means truly needed to face the problem of being a lady, as a result of I used to be within the lucky place of now not having brothers. My father handiest had the selection: Handing it over to a lady or to nobody from our circle of relatives. The larger factor for me used to be that I joined the corporate at an excessively younger age, and not using a college stage. Women do not want the sort of factor, it used to be mentioned on the time. I had to be informed numerous issues the laborious approach. Lately, that may now not be conceivable. The industry is a long way too advanced for that.

DER SPIEGEL: Antinori is likely one of the oldest circle of relatives companies on this planet and, with an annual turnover of round 200 million euros, one of the crucial biggest wine manufacturers in Europe. However the wine industry is changing into increasingly more world and aggressive. Does your 633-year custom depend for anything else anymore?

Antinori: The marketplace does now not take custom under consideration, that is true. Lately large wines are produced in every single place and advertised aggressively, particularly in a foreign country. 20 years in the past, it used to be sufficient to easily produce some other Cabernet or Chardonnay. Lately, that isn’t going to get us any place. Generating wines in Italy will at all times be dearer than, for instance, in Chile or South Africa. Our wines should subsequently be distinctive, they should stand out. And telling the tale in the back of our wine is changing into increasingly necessary.

DER SPIEGEL: What do you imply?

Antinori: Other folks know so much about wine nowadays. They appear on their smartphone to look how a lot rain has fallen right here on April three and on which parcel of land. However this information stays etherical. Wine is a sensual product, and there’s a rising quantity of people that wish to really feel how we make wine. Subsequently, in 2012, after 628 years, we as a circle of relatives determined to confide in the general public. We constructed this space particularly for that function.

DER SPIEGEL: Italians themselves are ingesting much less and no more wine. Italy’s in keeping with capita intake has reduced through 30 p.c 3rd since 1990. What has took place?

Antinori: Wine has long gone from being a supply of nourishment to a supply of delight. Up to now, farmers within the fields at all times had a bottle of wine with them for lunch, that helped stay them going. Fifty years in the past, wine used to be a herbal a part of Italian meals. However who beverages wine for lunch nowadays? All of us pay such shut consideration to our caloric consumption.

DER SPIEGEL: The Vatican has the second one absolute best in keeping with capita intake on this planet. Does the Pope additionally purchase from Antinori?

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Antinori: Sure, we’ve been supplying the Vatican for a couple of centuries. They revel in excellent meals and excellent wines.

DER SPIEGEL: Antinori sells wines that price between 7 and 20 euros in keeping with bottle within the grocery store, but in addition has top rate wines on be offering, like Tignanello or Solaia for 100 to 300 euros in keeping with bottle. What’s extra successful: mass or category?

Antinori: In my opinion, the costlier wines are after all extra successful. However in reality: With a view to produce best wines, you additionally want wines that may be dropped at marketplace sooner and for which you’ll use the grapes that don’t seem to be appropriate for the highest wines however nonetheless make large wines. If you happen to inquire from me, after all I might quite produce extra large wines. However there’s not anything shameful of manufacturing wines like Santa Cristina for 7 euros a bottle.

DER SPIEGEL: In Germany, in the meantime, the typical value for a liter of wine is two.92 euros. Is that one thing that makes you shudder?

Antinori: Worth performs a big position in Germany, and in Nice Britain as neatly. However that isn’t shameful. I incessantly cross to the grocery store and purchase what is at the shelf. And I’m ceaselessly stunned through the standard. That is what drives us to take the time.

DER SPIEGEL: However there appears to be a restrict beneath which you do not need to head. Your wine, for instance, is not bought on the discounters, despite the fact that part of all wines in Germany are bought there — and on occasion much more dear wines.

Antinori: That isn’t where for a bottle of Antinori. Each manufacturer has to come to a decision the place they wish to see their wines, and there’s sufficient room for everybody.

DER SPIEGEL: In comparison to the highest wines from the Bordelais area, even your costliest wines are nonetheless a cut price. Older vintages from that area can price neatly over 1,000 euros in keeping with bottle. Is that as a result of high quality or advertising?

Antinori: The standard is superb, however the French have at all times been excellent at advertising. In Italy, the wines get just a little dearer annually, however there are not any such value swings. And that’s the reason a excellent factor: Italian wines are inebriated, now not amassed, which is wholesome. Another way, the similar bottles wander all over the world and no person enjoys them.

DER SPIEGEL: The Chinese language higher categories, particularly, have lengthy most well-liked the extraordinarily dear Bordeaux wines. What does the rising


Antinori vines near Florence


Gianmarco Maraviglia / DER SPIEGEL

Antinori vines close to Florence

Chinese language middle-class drink?

Antinori: China is like each tradition that approaches a brand new product. To start with, this is a standing image for which people spend some huge cash. In the end, regardless that, it turns into fascinating to have a decision and the need to check out out new issues grows. This used to be the case within the U.S. and I’m constructive that this will likely additionally occur in China.

DER SPIEGEL: It isn’t already taking place?

Antinori: No. China has a powerful meals tradition of its personal. Within the U.S., this used to be now not the case, which helped Italian delicacies turn out to be in style in no time, Italian wines along side it. That used to be simple. In China, it’ll take longer.

DER SPIEGEL: Two years in the past, then-Italian Top Minister Matteo Renzi invited the founding father of the Chinese language web platform Alibaba, Jack Ma, to the Vinitaly wine truthful in Verona. Ma attempted to persuade manufacturers such as you to promote their wines to China by way of Alibaba. The reaction used to be quite restricted. Why?

Antinori: Those platforms are like a big grocery store shelf, handiest extra complicated as a result of you’ll’t even see the bottles bodily. There is not any level in being provide there so long as you don’t seem to be referred to as a logo in China and so long as Italy isn’t identified as a high quality manufacturer in China. The blame for the latter in reality falls on Italy itself. We’re extremely sophisticated.

DER SPIEGEL: How do you imply?

Antinori: We spend 20 years fervently debating the place precisely the boundary of an appellation lies, whether or not this is a few kilometers additional in a single path or the opposite. After which I’m going to China to provide our wines and say Italy. Other folks nonetheless nod there, ok. Then I say Tuscany and it’s already beginning to get tricky. Then, after I include the appellation, like Chianti Classico, comprehension stops utterly. No person understands that. Our battle about a couple of kilometers is useless, however that is simply how we’re.

DER SPIEGEL: The 12 months 2017 used to be a nasty one for wine manufacturers. International manufacturing fell for a lot of causes, together with robust warmth, excessive frost and torrential rainfall. Will world warming alternate your enterprise in the longer term?

Antinori: Local weather is one thing that folks in agriculture have at all times relied on. They know that there are excellent years and dangerous years; that, too, is a part of the thrill.However the local weather is truly converting, now not such a lot on moderate, however within the extremes. If it rains, it pulls down part a hill. Whether it is scorching, it’s boiling scorching and dry for weeks. That is nonetheless manageable, and as temperatures are emerging reasonably general, we will additionally develop vines in places that weren’t easiest prior to now, reminiscent of northeast slopes and better altitudes. Our buddies in Austria, Germany and Nice Britain are satisfied about this.

DER SPIEGEL: However how do you modify to the increasingly more excessive climate prerequisites?

Antinori: Water control is an important factor. When it rains, it’s a must to gather water. You must stagger vines to stop the water from dashing via and sweeping the soil away. We need to construct drainages and make sure that we’ve reservoirs wherein to retailer water for the new weeks. Water is like gold once more. We’ve all overlooked that previously 40 years, as it used to be more or less taken with no consideration.

DER SPIEGEL: The Antinori circle of relatives isn’t just an establishment within the wine international, however additionally it is one of the crucial oldest dynasties in Italy and is surely a part of the institution. The brand new executive in Rome, in the meantime, has attracted electorate with competitive anti-establishment rhetoric — with Internal Minister Matteo Salvini main the way in which. Do you’re feeling in my opinion attacked?

Antinori: Smartly, Tuscany is historically quite left-wing politically, so we’ve turn out to be used to such an way.

DER SPIEGEL: What do you suppose of the present executive?

Antinori: That is a mild query. Let me put it this manner: After now not even six months, it’s tricky to evaluate this executive as a result of not anything has truly been achieved aside from numerous noise and screaming. Nevertheless it is going with out announcing: This noise is worrisome. And what worries me maximum is that there appears to be an actual witch hunt underway.

DER SPIEGEL: You are alluding to the accusations that started flying round following the cave in of the freeway bridge in Genoa 8 weeks in the past.

Antinori: When one thing occurs, it’s at all times the fault of others: of the EU, of the Benetton circle of relatives. That leads us nowhere. Italy in any case wishes to transport on with a central authority that claims the place it’s going someday. Individuals are bored with sophisticated forms, of cash being spent in useless. It’s bad to stay on pouring oil in this fireplace. However Italy isn’t the one position this is occurring this present day.

DER SPIEGEL: The federal government is at odds with the Eu Fee as it needs to incur an excessive amount of debt. It is guarantees may upload as much as the cheap deficit of as much as 100 billion euros. Italy remains to be suffering underneath an enormous sovereign debt load collected for the reason that 1980s.

Antinori: It sort of feels unattainable to me for the federal government to continue down that street. I’m hoping it would possibly not as a result of they’re going to take the cash from corporations, by the use of taxes. The place else would it not come from?

DER SPIEGEL: At the brief time period, regardless that, it’s worthwhile to get pleasure from a deliberate 15 or 20 p.c flat tax. That will most likely be a long way lower than you’re these days paying.

Antinori: No, those plans are going to be changed, as they will have to be. What used to be introduced as a blessing for everybody will handiest get advantages only a few. The similar applies, however, to the pledge to chop the “golden” pensions of parliamentarians. This isn’t really easy to do and can handiest paintings for a couple of of them. However the decisive query is the fundamental source of revenue …

DER
SPIEGEL
: … related to Germany’s Hartz IV advantages for the unemployed.

Antinori: That is how the 5 Megastar motion were given its votes in southern Italy. In a typical nation, it is sensible for the state to maintain individuals who can not discover a process. That is the way it works in puts like Switzerland and Germany. However the Italian management is so desolate that it would rarely be carried out.

DER SPIEGEL: If you happen to suppose that many of the plans would possibly not be carried out anyway, that may be more or less reassuring, could not it?

Antinori: What truly bothers me is that the political opposition has nearly disappeared. Neither the conservatives nor the left have any person who severely opposes this executive. The place are they? It can be techniques to mention, allow them to shout. However we now want individuals who get up and say: Forestall, you’ll’t do that.

DER SPIEGEL: The federal government blames Italy’s financial issues above all at the EU’s strict funds regulations, making important investments that might cause enlargement unattainable.

Antinori: Italy with out Europe is misplaced! Leaving the EU isn’t an possibility. The federal government is thus enjoying with fireplace. It’s simple to mention it is the EU’s fault, however that is like us announcing: It is raining, it is the executive’s fault. It is excellent for Italy to have the EU as a larger brother who says: You spend an excessive amount of cash. In fact, some regulations are tricky, and you have got to speak about important investments. However first Italy has to chop spending, which is out of keep watch over. There are fewer and less public servants, the whole thing is going slowly. I truly have no idea the place the cash goes.

DER SPIEGEL: As a industry chief, do you discuss up on political problems to ensure that your voice is heard in Rome?

Antinori: As a wine trade, we’ve our associations to take action.

DER SPIEGEL: And also you in my opinion?

Antinori: Now not truly. As a circle of relatives, we’ve at all times in large part stayed clear of politics: Do your individual factor, maintain your soil, the whole thing else is bad.

DER SPIEGEL: Was once that your father’s recommendation?

Antinori: My father’s, grandfather’s, great-grandfather’s. The governments alternate so temporarily in Italy that there is not any level in interfering politically.

DER SPIEGEL: How ceaselessly do you ask your father for recommendation?

Antinori: It’s not a query of inquiring for recommendation. We come to a decision so much in combination. He is 80 years outdated now, and the one distinction from sooner than is that he is within the place of work much less ceaselessly.

DER SPIEGEL: Will your kids additionally sign up for the corporate?

Antinori: My daughter studied agriculture in Milan. She is now doing her grasp’s stage and labored for a 12 months at a vineyard in California. My son studied economics and advertising, and spent 3 years with Pernod Ricard in Australia. So a minimum of there is a likelihood that either one of them will wish to paintings with us.

DER SPIEGEL: What would you could have mentioned if the 2 had most well-liked to turn out to be artists or docs?

Antinori: When you have a keenness, it’s a must to practice it. In need of to be a physician is a undertaking. No matter you do, you will have to do it with devotion. Getting into a circle of relatives industry is a superb possibility, but it surely can not simply be observed as a seat to warmth. It is extra than simply paintings, it is a responsibility to stay one thing for the following technology and hand it over in higher situation.

DER SPIEGEL: When did you get to drink wine for the primary time on your existence?

Antinori: Oh, that wasn’t a subject for us. After we have been 5 – 6 years outdated, we kids got a small schnapps glass with wine and a few water in it on Sundays. We have been introduced up with wine. Later, there used to be at all times a bottle at the desk and everybody used to be allowed to drink from it. Once more: Wine is for ingesting, to present excitement and pleasure.

DER SPIEGEL: Ms. Antinori, thanks very a lot for this interview.

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